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Do you want a quick drilling, routing, 2D and 3D milling jobs easily to be done? A wooden router table can help. However, it doesn’t need to be an expensive router table. You should be proud of yourself to build a simple to a complicated set of router table for your workshop. It definitely doesn’t look like a perfect machine but at least, it can satisfy your own needs with spending a decent budget rather than purchasing a commercial one from the store. How do you start?

In this article, you will find out about the method to build a simple and efficient handmade wooden 3D router table of maximum versatility. Surely, you can build a 3D router table as good as the other type in a fraction of the time.

You can design your router table building project in AutoCAD for a construction layout before going to cut in reality. Make a design build it simply, easily and cheaply.

What is the difference between a 3D router table and a normal router table?
The difference is that the 3D router table can make simple shapes 3D milling via a reference model. It is also can be used as a 3-axis drill press, sanding station, and a 2D router. The capacity of 3D is also known as the smooth movement capacity in three dimension space by diagonals and curves. Before, wood workers can only design carving using 2D or 2.5D. It is when two-dimension with the z-axis movement, x-axis, and y-axis stand still or only a single moving up or down. In another explanation, the result of the 2D technique is a flat one of what we cut. You can make a 2.5D design if adding up and down movements of the router on the workpiece. The 2.5D design, in general, should be assigned a depth or multiple depths for router’s movement in cutting grooves or flat pockets. You can see many applications of 2D design technique in classic carving or chiseling. It is a great way to add impression for your letter, sign design or wood decorative projects.

Meanwhile, 3D designs the project in a more natural and reader style. It demands the three axis move simultaneously while cutting. There are a lot of designs for you to take advantage using this technique to create most impressive designs. It is without difficulties and can be very cheap if you can make a machine with its full 3D capacity to create shapes with specific specifications.

There are many 3D capacities and different applications for you to choose the best works for your project.

It is recommended for you to use the Router and saw table to begin your project at home. It will give you great precision and considerable experience of woodworking. There are two requirements for the cuts. First, they need to be perfectly straight and square. Second, they should be axis parallel ad well-aligned. Moreover, bumps on bearings must be avoided. If not, there will be much vibrating with your tool.

Begin cutting, then sanding. Put everything in hand for the next step of assembling. Start with by setting up the axis metal profiles. Iron or steel is the ideal materials to make this. It is more perfect to use aluminum as it is much softer than the bearings. After that, you use glue to keep the screw stay stitching without catching the bearings. Make sure to let them be parallel and straight.

Dowels can be used to make many parts strong enough without loose out.

Start by assembling the X-axis frame. Keep in mind to prevent width in the metal profile. There are some places you need to adjust the bearings to the metal profile.

Then continue with the Y-axis frame. This frame must stay square and be able to slide along the arms of the x-axis.

The last axis is Z axis. Assemble every part together now. The universal collet hole should be very exact. The best way to do this is drilling with the right bit. The milling machine often comes loose. So, the tip here is to prevent vibration is to fasten the milling machine well.

I hope that this is somehow helpful to your woodworking experience. Those are the general guide for you with the introduction to 3D and why you should choose 3D router table with its efficient features applied into your work. There are different methods and styles to make a 3D router table. Therefore, at the beginning, you also should prepare for the right way to do it.

The additional wing or extension wing for your table saw is a good way to help you expand its space as it always comes to be as little by its original design. We are going to show you how to expand on different three sides and may double the available size for your working space. This is not a new idea as most woodworkers aware of this limitation of the table saw. Some think of building an additional table accompanying with it. This, in fact, can work well if your workshop is with no problem regarding of space. On the other hand, it is also not very convenient to have a small thing standing in the way while you are working. It is with many conveniences, floor space saving and ideally minimum cost. You can also have a lift mounted to your table saw with this extension wing. In fact, it is just a simple shallow box.

You can use plywood to make it.

It is recommended to use pine plywood which you can get from the store with a good price with the good quality. Or you can re-use any B-Grade Wood piece around your house with the right dimension and still in good condition. You know, any countertops can be even used to make a fence. You see? You can make it at no cost. However, remember to remove dirt and damaged part on your material in order to get the usable part for your project only. Sand the wood piece to have a flat surface.

After collecting the materials, the next step is to make the structure. Carefully measuring everything before cutting is an important thing to do first. Build the frame first. Then use glue and nails to fit it at the stable position.

The next thing to do is to cut the insert plate holes. You should use a tape measure and mark the right size of the perimeter on the surface for the final cutting. A jigsaw is recommended to get a right cut with the drawn line. Some people use the pocket holes to make a guide frame during the cutting for an exact perimeter so that the insert plate is mounted fittingly. You can also use a router bit with a guide bearing to route out the rest of the material so that the insert plate can be fitted in that right opening just by that reference. The router lift is mounted to the bottom side of the extension wing.

The wood piece will mushroom out a bit during the drilling screws into the wood piece. Therefore, it is better to have the countersunk holes predrilled into the router lift top. It will help to keep the screws go into the router lift and the extension wing which will make a little room expansion into the counter for a snug connection between the two plywood layers. You should also mount it to the bottom of the extension wing before the installation. Remember to make it aligned with the drawing.

The removal of the commercial extension wing from the table saw will make room for the movement of the new extension wing. The mounting holes should be far away from the table saw so you can balance its weight compared to the original wing.

Everything is nearly finished. It is time for installation. The moment of mounting the final piece fittingly will make you extremely proud of your wood making skill.

Next, the table saw surface should be leveled with the extension wing. It will be perfect to have a straight and coplanar edge.

The final step is the dust collection port. It should be installed right up to the cutting edge of the router. The efficiency of the dust collection port lays on the fact it is installed correctly with the router but. The hole behind that router bit should be cut larger.

The corners on the insert plate are removed to have the insert plate fitted into the hole.

If you want to have a right position for the insert plate, you just need to measure to decide the center of the router bit in the router collet. And then, you will know the right location for the insert plate on the bit top.

The extension wing is mounted and fitted into the table saw with no difficulty and the proper fitting will make your experience in wood making expand to the new position. Share with us to see how far you have done with your project.

There are many versions of router tables that you can choose to set up for your workshop. You can easily double the router table with these additional features. Smooth edges, long moldings, or small molding will be done easily and safely with these types of router tables. It is at your own need. Everything is easy and simple with additional features you wish to have in your router table. In our series, you can find these awesome setups series for you to consider as guidance. Your final router designs come to your expectations regarding the lift, extension wing and the adjustable fence. If you are really interested in router table designs, take action right now to build one on your own. I am sure that it will cost you a very friendly budget compared to the commercial router tables offered on the current market. The important thing, also, is that it completely suits your project.

It will be more useful if the router table fence has control itself. In other words, you can set up an adjustment system to make the fence work better. It is not very expensive and you can quickly attach the system to your router table in several minutes.

First of all, cut the plywood according to the suitable size in your plan before assembling. Then, remember to mark the center points of the slot ends. The adjustable fence operates well or not depending on the slots and hold down knobs.

The next step is to drill that center point as you have planned out the right size for it. You can do the two pieces slots at the same time by stacking them on each other and make the only drill.

After drilling, you should use a jigsaw to make the slots. The cut will be perfect with the reference of a speed square along the side of the holes.

The router table fence is ready to assemble after all the pieces are cut exactly. You just then need glue, butt joints and screws to attach them together easily.

The end of the slots is attached a riser block so that you will mount the first front panels along its side.

Depending on your dust collection port below the router box, you will make your fence with a spitted base or a continuous piece. In either way, just make sure the front pieces are on the same exact plane that you clamp them on the straightest surface.

Then, glue the top cap and nail it in place. It may take an hour to have the glue cure. After that, you can remove the clamps from the front faces.

If you target to make a split fence that is without the carriage bolts and slots adjustment, then here is the tip for you to do that.

You just need to drill two holes and insert the screws to hold it in place in the back. Then if there is any adjustments you want to make to it, you just need to remove the screw, slide the front faces and insert it again.

The knobs are easy to make by just a simple cut and a small drill to make a hole in the center of this rectangle shape wood piece. This can be cut with a CNC.

Then you thread a carriage bolt into that hole for making the knob.

Stop pushing the bolt as it goes halfway into the hole, then add a wrench and a couple jam nuts to fit it into place. You may use the nuts and bolts with spacers and washers to attach them to the right length in securing to your table. The spacers prove to be very useful to you when you want to screw or unscrew into T-bolts.

Drill the T-nut holes in the back of the slots after finishing assembling. The knobs are tightened more easily with the drawing the T-nut up from below.

When you get most of everything in its place, do a few tests to make sure it will work well as you want.

Remember that the dust collection port works well due to the unobstructed path from the router bit into it. The back side is mounted the insert plate. Another insert plate with a larger opening on the blade’s left side will make it easier to push the dust collection while cutting dados.

After all, you have a super easy adjustable fence that you can use in many coming projects.

It’s very simple to route parts for a nice shape by using a router table. All things you require for the good result are a good bit and a proper template. But when you don’t a router fence, the bit attached into the router plate is a trick for the nicer cuts. As the bit starts cutting a wood board, the cutting part has to move the bit to the stock. A starter pin will keep this stock from being cut too deep while it ensures the safe conditions during the process.

Carrying overbalance router bits make a router table more different possibilities that are making extremely accurate cuts in curved or straight stock in case no fence is attached. These situations are very dangerous with trimming small pieces since they are easy to be kicked out when low-tech woodworkers control in wrong ways. Thus, starter pins are important to protect your hands as working.

Starter pins are made of brass or steel while some pins include bolts applied with a plastic barrel. They are often ⅜ inch to ½ inch diameter and fasten into threaded holes to a side of a router bit. It’s better to cut screws thread on four edges of a bit to provide the most choices.

Before installing a starting pin, you need to consider the rotation of the router bit and purposes of the job. That is setting the distance and holes on the plate that support the safest and easiest usage of the router. Don’t be worry about the mistake, you can try many locations until you find the suitable place. For instance:

If you cut a long piece, it’s better to use a starter pin nearer to the router bit.

Stocks with narrower final parts need starter pins farther away from router bits so you can keep your hands in safe situations.
Sometimes, you must change the position a few times during a job to keep safe conditions.

The starter pin is the simplest tool to a clean and safe cut. It is used as an immovable point that the part use to pivot around the cutter and that provides leverage allowing you to move carefully, gradually and gently the stock to the bit. Moreover, The pins provide enough resistance for the horizontal motions so the wood pieces are slowly pivoted by the bits. That means a pin will help the tabletop withstand the horizontal forces from the too smooth surface. In cases, the work is very heavy or there is no need of the resistance, a starter pin is useless.

A starter pin is always used as a bearing on the router plate. You can’t increase the control of a deep cut, but it gives assistance to hold a wood piece between your fingers and the pin for a nice shape. You don’t need the powerful pressure against the pin when working since the high force can break the bit into pieces or mark with dents on soft woods. The force must be tight enough to make nice cuts while the problems like kickbacks of the wood don’t happen.

The starter pin can’t change the feed direction, but it is a good support for feeding the stock. The wood piece doesn’t turn around the bit without a bearing since you are very hard to make a nice shape. In most alignment, it is trimmed on the side forward to the operator so you can easily access the starter pin to get the best direction.

To begin the cut, the piece relies on the starter pin, then you make it rotate into the router bit. During the operation, you move it from the right side to left side while keeping it against the pin. Even if you work the narrower final part, you can’t take it away from the pin. For larger pieces, it’s safe that you use a string pin in the beginning and then you can route the stock to let the pin finish the cut.

When you can’t use a router fence, the starter pins are easy and simple ways to make a template routing easier and safer, but you should practice this skill frequently. You should spend the time to install a pin that is not expensive and very simple to set up. Moreover, it helps you protect your hands and body from abrupt uncontrolled movements or dangerous kick-outs of wood pieces, which can lead serious injuries. There are always reasons manufacturers include starter pins on their router plates. Try it a few times and you would like to use a starter pin every time.

If you are a beginner of routing the wood, splinters are the common issue you often suffer from as using a router or router table. In this post, you can know how to avoid splinters and tear out as routing the wood.

The right motion

It’s easy to cause tear out along the ending wood grain when you route against the wood grain along the edges. To reduce tear out on the end grain, you have to move with the wood grain entirely. You should think of dividing a stroke into some parts so each part will be fed in the right direction for the best advantage. For a vertical wood grain shown, you can feed just the top on the curve, no more motions after that. Your router table is fasten facing up so that a lumber is fed past the bit.

It’s difficult for you to route stringy lauan plywood, veneer or pine softwood. When you use a bit to dig in, the wood grain tears out and splits. For a tangible confirmation this situation, a book is rolled up so that it’s fanned out. When you stroke fingers across the curved edge, it feels soft and sounds as a zipper. As you pull the curve along forcefully, it catches and feels rough. You use the bit to dig into the book so its soft layers are fastened together by pressure.

Before setting on a shape or trimming a blank, align a wood grain in place for the best efficiency. Depending on your horizontal or vertical grain, you might control the right position. A repositioned perpendicular layer isn’t always a beneficial option. You should think of the place efficient to flip a board over. A template reapplied methodically is less trouble than the curves trimmed again and again by blowout. You can also reverse the action by shifting between the table and hand. For difficult curves, you can use a spindle sander or drum to complete.
Occasionally, it’s useful to fix a backup wood board tightly along the end. After routing along the final work piece, you may continue to the edge and on the lumber left over. The backup wood compresses and contains the fibers broken forcibly into parts.

Routing the laminate

Always route from the laminate surface to the substrate. That helps the backing to support the veneer or thin top cover, which will chip off when you go from the back to the front side. The glue will keep the laminate surface down in the normal use, however, that alone will not prevent it from breaking into parts if the bit moves it away. Consider the joint between the laminated covers as if they look like the wood grains and apply the backup into the proper place.

Man-made compounds generally have the thickness and no wood grain for splinters, which make them desired for routing.

Pressure

Don’t press too strongly on the template. Make several constant strokes to work gradually. Working the hardwood is more trouble than working the softwood. If you are ready for using a large bit, flat surfaces of wood must be rough down by other devices first. In the end, hold the wood lightly.

The strong pressure can slow the speed for a very short time, especially for weak motors. When it’s slow, grooves or holes might happen. If you find it struggling, it’s a good signal that the bit overcome the hill. You should apply the same force for a long time since it’s less able to trim without grooves or holes.

Feed rate

The slow rates make cuts neater. On a single work, you must make steady strokes until the tearout stops happening. The thick oak lumber should be cut in the fast speed while the soft materials are suitable for the slower speed. The slow feed can make solid and heavy surfaces rough, but it’s good for the thin plastic layers.

Cutting flutes

The variety of flutes depends on various kinds of the router bits. One flute feeds quickly, but it may cut rougher and more trouble than two flutes in line. It’s simple to cut one straight flute, but cutting more flutes may make them move into a sloping position.
If the pilot bits are not efficient, you can consider several types of the spiral bits. The slow spiral makes a curved edge having a three-dimensional shape. The spirals include many options, the upcut spiral may promote tearout on the wood while the down cut spiral avoids the wood splintering. Some bits have both features, but they are more expensive

Runout and vibration

To create a flat panel, it’s important to move it gently or quickly from side to side. Intricate shapes like rail and stile may be nicer by clamping the extra standard fence or the custom-made model matching closely the shape. It can be placed nearer to the router bit or further as needed.

Router bits should not shake noisily since the vibration makes tear out worse. Working the motor quicker can magnify this problem. If you aren’t successful, just blow out wood rubbish and try mounting it again.

To prevent splinters on the wood as routing, you must pay attention to the router bit selection, feed direction, the fence, and the speed of feeding. After a short time of practicing, you certainly make neat cuts for the nice wood pieces.

Router tables help you make nice cuts with their routers that might be very difficult to complete freehand. They help you guide the boards across the bits instead of you guide the handheld router over the board. There are some techniques and tips used for stabilizing the wood while keeping it down firmly. You can learn useful information below:

If possible, you should use a router bit with ½ inch shanks. For many routers, the ¼ inch collets are interchangeable with ¼ inch, and some router bits include these shank diameters. However, a ½ inch bit brings the less vibration and better stability because the great mass of the shank increase – and that provides typically a longer life of a cutter and a smoother trim.

Ensure that the router bit is correctly installed in your router table. Place it into the lowest point, then move it back about 1/16 inch to ⅛ inch and fasten the collets. If the bit isn’t moved back a little, the collets will fasten at the round transition place between the shank and the cutter – meaning that the bit will not have the full touch with the shank base. That causes the bit become loose when you turn on the router – a very terrible scenario.

Ensure that the bit is clean, smooth, and sharp. Dull cutters and resin buildup cause heat buildup that produces bad cuts and further dull your bit. You can consider the reputable brands to remove buildup as using since some bits are coated diamond sharpeners. You should check the nicks of the router bit’s cutting edge. It’s better to remove the small nicks by the diamond sharpeners, however, the experts often like the cutters including large nicks for the best reground.

Control the bit speed. Router bits are not operated at the identical speed. The larger has the greater rate and, therefore, it creates the larger vibration at the high speeds. Manufacturers often list clearly and definitely the maximum speeds of their products, and you must follow their recommendations for the safety. It’s necessary to know that these top speeds are notified for the safe operation, but you don’t need these speeds for all situation. You also need to consider other factors including the wood properties, the bit condition and quality, feed rate, and the router horsepower.

Clean the chips. Link your table or router to a dust collecting system or shop vacuum to remove all waste materials. If the rubbish gathers between the workpiece and the plate or between the workpiece and the fence, it’s hard to make cuts.

It’s better to make many light passes than a heavy cut. It is extremely important to work with router bits that remove several materials, but it applies when you cut rabbets or dadoes with straight bits. Bits and routers aren’t produced to take over all materials at the single action, and if you make a try, you will get burning and tear out. Instead of one cut, make three or four passes, making every cut deeper each time. That can be particularly beneficial when feeding with the wood that is easy to burn or tear-out. If you use the flush trim bit for routing the wood or trimming the edge, use a band saw or jigsaw to remove much material first to prevent the burden of the bit.

Control the feed rate. It’s the speed you move the wood edge across the bit rotating in the router table. The fast speed can cause the bit to become stuck or make rough cuts while the too slow rate creates burn marks on wood edges. Thus, you should practice frequently to produce a consistent and smooth feed rate. It’s very important to work with long stocks since they require steady movements. Stops will lead to burns so you should keep the wood moving.

Use a fence and feather boards. When you route the wood by a router table, ensure that you set the fence correctly so the wood surface supports the steady feed rate. Feather boards are also the good way for remaining the wood tight on the table top and the fence when you move it across the router bit.

When cutting all edges of the wood, route in the correct direction. Route the end parts first, then continue to the long edges. As you work the long parts first, there are splinters on the final grain routing. Shaping the ends first can remove all splinters on the wood.
router table

The final thing you need to know is practicing all these things frequently so that you can create precious cuts with your router table. The router bit is very important factor in the router table so you need to take a good care of it for the best advantages.

If you have recently bought a router table or other immovable power tools, you will recognize that your new possession doesn’t come with every desirable and related equipment imaginable in the container already. Don’t think you’re cheated. By agreement, the router table comes with essential pieces of equipment to perform the basic functions of routing safely, following typical working conditions.

After working a few times, most owners realize that some things in the router table accessories rarely coming standard are hard for doing without. Luckily, the router table add-ons most woodworkers regard as absolutely necessary things are inexpensive. Some of the highest qualities are affordable to purchase readymade, or very easy to be made without many difficulties in the workshop. The feather board is the prime example.

In cases you have not had any opportunity for using a feather board, it’s the most popular member of the router table designed to give the assistance to hold the stock tightly against the router fence or the top, while the stock is cut by the bit. The simplest form of a shop-made feather board is separated from a straight piece about 3 inches to 6 inches wide scrap. If you want to make one by yourself, you simply cut across the main board at about 30 degrees, then you make a number of stopped cuts following the direction to separate ⅛ inch parts of the single grain. The final result must be a number of flexible fingers moving across angled final part of the wood board.

The usage

A feather board really serves two goals.

It gives assistance to hold a stock tightly against the fence or the router top while you feed the stock through the bit. In some cases, it can do a greater job than an operator for keeping the piece on track. The feather board has the only requirement to apply the consistent pressure. There’s no worry about some things like turning hand positions for keeping a stock running, or keeping the proper feed rate. Moreover, the feather board is positioned nearer to the motion than the operator’s finger that should dare to go dangerous situation. That is applying pressure on the place the board is cut in the most effective way while it can overcome problems of the vibration. At the same time, these benefits make the feather board absolutely necessary with the router table for very fine edge forming, rabbeting and grooving operations.

Using the feather board supports safety benefits. When it is placed to apply the light pressure, it allows the stock to easily move in the way of cutting while preventing movement backward. You should notify that the feather board isn’t a renewal for the anti-kickback stock now coming usual with most router tables, it provides the significant kickback protection.

Should you create the own feather board, or purchase one ready-made?

• The first one is an achievable selection: a feather board made by yourself can operate as well as a model bought from the store, and they are nearly cost-free. However, as most things, you should think of two tradeoffs: a feather board isn’t especially difficult to form, but it doesn’t make itself. Depending on how much pleasure you get from cutting jigs, and how much time you spend for the shoe, you can decide the selection to make the own one brings more benefits than the cost of a model bought from the store.
• However, your own feather board is less friendly for the user than varieties of the store. If you intend to simply fix your own in place, remember to hold it in place with the slight pressure. If you hold it very tightly, there are some difficulties for keeping it in place.

It might be difficult for the feather board to fix a stock in place on the router table top that isn’t designed for making the process convenient and easy. It’s the fact that the feather board helps avoid clamping problems. The bar expands to fasten the feather board tightly into a measure of the miter slot about ¾ inch x ⅜ inch and secure simultaneously its position, with the move of two knobs.

The quantity

Occasionally, one feather board is not always enough and a router table requires stacked feather boards. If you are feeding a stock vertically into the constant direction on the fence – as in cases of trimming raised panels – you need two feather boards set up on the table top near the fence. The second one makes sure the whole surface of the board will be against on the fence, but not only a bottom edge.

If you have a router table in your workshop, you should get feather boards for the good work. They help to keep a stock tightly in place and protect yourself from the kickback problems of the stock. A feather board is inexpensive so you should have a try to know its advantages for your woodwork.